Day 1, November 11th
Bring it on!
We were up bright and early and off to the airport. Very busy airport, so busy that our flight was an hour later than scheduled. We knew to get on the left hand side for the best view. You couldn't wipe the smile off Lisa's face and the rest of us were equally excited. Simply amazing views. Cool landing on the uphill airport at Lukla. Quick cup of tea then off with our two porters and one guide. Having flown into altitude, the plan was an easy three and a half hours and a chance to get used to what we were carrying, pace etc. The boys didn't drink enough and one in particular talked too much. Amazing lunch on the way. Lisa's spring roll was huge and full of lovely fresh vegies. Warm guest house, (well, warm with all the warm clothes we brought). We lay in bed listening to the river running outside and the rats running in the roof. Lisa still smiling. One son requesting to go to bed at 5:30 pm so we were all well asleep by 7.
Day 2, November 12th
This is awesome!
After another great breakfast we trekked to Jorsale and we stayed at the Buddha lodge. The boys spent a couple of hours in the bar playing cannon ball with the locals including our porters. It must be cold. Sonam, one of our porters carrying most of the load has actually put a jacket on. He wears copy crocs (put socks on for the second half of the day), track pants and a light shirt. Always smiling he bounds ahead of us whilst trekking and then sits and waits. He has virtually zero luggage and we haven't seen him eating a lot. Our other porter, Pemba, is from Kathmandu (travelled with us). He also has essentially no luggage although he has good boots (gifted by a client we find out later). He too bounds along effortlessly with a big smile. Dawa is our guide. He is older and wiser. He is definitely taking care of us, telling us when to rest, put buffs and hats on, when to go inside, and what to eat. He tells us about the various places we pass through.
We cracked open the first box of chocolates today (thanks Nonna). Such a great treat when it is cold. We gave some to Sonam, Pemba and Dawa. The last of the box was rationed out for pockets for tomorrow, a tougher day elevating 800m.
Several people are taking a second glance when they see little Taiga and Cody trekking along. A man asked today how old they were and if they were struggling. We resolved later that he must have been struggling to have asked the question. They are doing well and learning the do's and don'ts. After today's fun at the bar they will be looking forward to getting to our destination each day as they love cannon ball.
Day 3, November 13th
Sore tummy
It is 4:30 am and we'll be up soon to get an early start. Our destination is Namche Bazar and they have a weekly market today. We chatted with some Americans last night and they told Lisa that the shopping is good so she is keen to get there. Dawa has advised us to wear warmer clothes today as it is getting colder. The chance of snow is increasing which is only increasing the excitement in the Corbett trekking party.
The food we have been having has been delicious. We have been told that garlic soup is "mountain medicine" so we all smell of garlic! Luckily the soup is really tasty and good for warming you up. Taiga and I had pizza today for lunch at Namche Bazar and it was outstanding. We probably should have listened to the advice not to eat the cheese.
We wrapped up warm and hit the markets. Lisa has her eye on a particular hat which will no doubt be purchased before we leave. Well, we aren't sure if it is the altitude, the cheese in the pizza, or the cold wind but I have got sick. Confined to bed for the rest of the day with no appetite.
Day 4, November 14th
Acclimatisation
Today is a rest day which includes a 3 hour hike up (400m vertical) and back to continue the acclimatisation. I didn't manage all of it as the vomiting has continued. Lets hope I'm OK for the eight hours tomorrow.
Yesterday was cloudy so we hadn't noticed the view outside our window. Lisa looked out the window and exclaimed "wow". A huge snow capped mountain range staring straight at us. Today has been a good chill out day. The boys are playing cards, Lisa is planning her next shopping expedition, and we are all very happy and in good spirits.
Part of the fun of this trip has been the people we have met along the way. We've just been chatting to a Melbourne guy on his way down the mountain. He has expanded on the things we can expect. He has pointed out how cold it is further up the mountain so Lisa has just headed out to buy more warm gear.
Day 5, November 15th
Penguin Steps
Early start as we have our toughest day so far. Four and a half hours solid walk to lunch then three and a half hours up and up. Dawa has been trying to teach us "penguin steps", nice small slow steps to conserve energy. If you stride out when the track is basically going up at 45° you make it much tougher on yourself. It has taken until today to really master the penguin steps. Very glad to get to our destination today, Debouche. It is 200m vertical, down from our highest point today so quite sheltered. A couple of easier days ahead of us to recover and continue the acclimatisation. We are at 3700m now and all going pretty well.
We were blessed with a clear morning today and had our first really good view of Everest. We could actually see four peaks clearly all morning; Everest, Lhotse, No. 38 and Ama Dablam. Lhotse looks the most impressive and the tallest given it is closer. We made a donation along the way to some people responsible for maintaining a section of the track. They were making a wonderful job of it too.
SHORT PEOPLE: Lisa and I had a laugh today at how things are set up for short people here. I gave my head a fair crack last night when I went to the toilet and I must have woken everyone up when I shouted out what I had gone there to do. In the entrance area to our current lodge, I reckon I would knock the light bulb out with my nose!
FOOD: Whilst the food has been tasty, it is a bit limited. We have been warned off caffeine, dairy and meat products. Just today we have been talking about the food we have been missing. Some good salads, a wagyu roast, salmon with capers, french cutlets, Nonna's ham and corn muffins with sweet chili sauce, Nana's fudge with a strong coffee.
COLD: It is starting to get pretty cold, particularly for some Gold Coasters. Ice has formed on the ceiling of our rooms. I ducked outside this morning in my thongs to check out the frost. This was a mistake and I am now reconsidering my planned nudie run at EBC (Everest base camp). Darn cold. Taiga has just brought in a clump of ice taken from his window sill. Its midday and the puddles are still iced over.
SOUNDS: Bells clanging on the yaks and jokbei as they go past with their shepherds shouting at them, Dawa's accent as he explains what we are going to be doing today, Pemba and Sonam singing and dancing on the track whilst the rest of us try to catch our breath, "Jam jam" - Dawa telling us to set off on the next stage of the trek, "Lisa maam" and "James sir" - how Dawa addresses Lisa and I, "Namaste" in varying accents, the best being the little Nepali toddlers that shout it out to us, "Slowly, slowly" - Dawa trying to ensure that we don't over exert ourselves. "EZ peesy, lemon eeskoo easy" - Dawa telling us we have an easy section ahead.
Day 6, November 16th
Intervals
Nice easy three hours today. We made our destination before lunch. We are now right in the middle of the mountains, with peaks out each window of our lodge. This will be a good chance to really freshen up. We plan to have a good chill out afternoon. Today I realised that taking ten quick steps on an incline is like running 200m intervals on a long run. Your heart rate spikes, you are completely out of breath, you hope you will recover and you can only do a limited number of them and sill finish your run. We found out today that Lukla airport (where we flew into) has been closed in with bad weather since the day we arrived (5 days). If we had deferred arriving by a day it would have completely scuppered our adventure. We just need it to be open when we get back down so that we can still do our Tibet trip.
From Steve
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