Steve's Diary Entries 13 -18

Day 13, November 23

Rest Up, and Hike Up

Everyone needed to freshen up so we decided on a day of movies and card playing. We were at the foot of Mount Ama Dablam so I convinced Pemba to take me to base camp. Dawa had estimated 5 to 6 hours round trip. I'd promised the boys I'd play cards with them so they put it on me to be back in under 5 hours or punishments would be in order. Given Dawa's estimations the day before I was quite worried. Just what I needed after 10+ and 8+ hour days, a 5 hour race up a mountain. Anyway off we set with Cody clicking go on the stopwatch.  About an hour in I felt like I was doing well and really putting pressure on my Nepalese race mate. We were going up a really steep section and I thought I had him struggling. He then had the audacity to pull his cell phone out to phone his wife and ask how the kids were! At another point, obviously my loud gasping was annoying him so he played music on his phone quite loud. Anyway we were treated to a coffee at base camp by the cook, I gifted some muesli bars and we headed back down, running all the way. It nearly killed me but much to the surprise of Cody and Taiga we were back in 3:36. Over 5 hours of cards followed and even some dancing led by Cody. After all that I slept very well.

A nice hot coffee at Ama Dablam base camp having walked through snow to get there.

Day 14, November 24th

Pringles, Pringles

Today we trekked from Pangboche to Namche Bazar, around 6 hours. This is our last long day as we've decided to spread the remaining time over the distance quite evenly. The boy's set a cracking pace (unbeknownst to me incentivised by Pringles). It was a nice sunny day and the improvement in altitude is making trekking a lot easier and the temperature warmer. We arrived ahead of schedule so Mum shelled out for the Pringles. During our trek today there has been a mountain marathon in progress. Consequently there are many foreigners in Namche Bazar. A special Tibetan market was being held so we popped in for a look. We had the same big room at the Tea House as on our way up the mountain so we knew the ropes and for the first time in a while we all had several hours sleep.

Day 15, November 25th

Dance Away

The Tibetan markets were still in full swing but we couldn't find much to buy. These merchants sleep outside in rudimentary tents (a tarp over a cross-brace) in the freezing cold. Even the ones selling shoes are in bare feet. Today was a short walk day, so we decided to leave after lunch as Namche Bazar is such an interesting place. The female owner of the tea house presented Cody & Taiga with prayer wheels, bracelets and then all four of us were presented with Khada scarves (quite an honour). They had heard about our dancing, so wanted us to perform. Our final act at Namche Bazar was the Corbett party (us four plus our two porters plus one guide) dancing to the Black Eyed Peas whilst being cheered and videoed by the locals. We left in high spirits and did the easy walk through to Jorsale, staying in a very nice tea house (where the boys were presented with chocolates. We are now meeting people on their way up the mountain, marvelling at the success of Cody and Taiga.

Day 16, November 26th

Would you like sugar with that?

We were due to depart at 7am but once again it is an easy day so we were in no rush. Lukla airport has been closed so we are a little concerned as we are due to fly on the 28th. We strolled through to Phakding where we had lunch. The walking is now getting very easy given our altitude training. Lisa and I lay in the sun whilst the boys played cannon ball. Lisa had felt like a salad for lunch and for some reason they dressed it with copious amounts of sugar! We had great rooms with sun and a view. Early dinner then early to bed.

Day 17, November 27th

Lukla Airport Open?

Somehow leaving at 5am with no breakfast translated into getting up at 3:30am and leaving at 4:20am. We all had lights but given the full moon it was actually quite light. Taiga seemed in his element and led the way. We made Lukla by 7am to give ourselves the best chance of getting on a flight a day early. Breakfast at the Lukla lodge and then we waited, and waited, and waited. Cloud issues at Lukla as well as Kathmandu but flights came and went all day. At 2pm we were told it would be tomorrow for us. Off to Lukla Starbucks to use the internet. It is very cloudy so lets hope it happens tomorrow!  First meat for a while for dinner.  Three chicken sizzlers for parents and Stig, plus Cody had spag bog with buffalo meat.  The chicken was like it had been left on a BBQ all afternoon, but better that than under cooked.  We all enjoyed our dinner.

Day 18, November 28th

Tick the box

We were due to check in to the airport at 6:15am so it was a relatively early start.  We are past experts at breaking camp now and didn't take long at all.  Thankfully both airports were open and we were on plane number 3.  A trouble free transfer to Kathmandu and then our hotel.  Lisa and I reflected on a wonderful trek with all the boxes ticked.  We had met an Italian lady who was overflowing with her admiration for the boys.  She had also looked enviously at us as a loving family doing the trek together, and sharing the experience.

The moon peeking through as the last of the sunset hits Everest.

Two days turnaround and we are off on the next adventure - off to Tibet over land.

From Steve

Peak Freaks!

The boys have become somewhat local legends having made it all the way to Everest Base Camp at the ages of 9 and 10 years old. They have caused quite a bit of attention with locals and other trekkers. A lot had plans to reach base camp, but didn't for various reasons.

The climb was difficult, with high winds in parts, slippery ice, snow falling, dropping temperatures and land slides, but after 11 days of trekking to get there, they weren't going to be deterred. What a great lesson in determination!

They already knew about Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and the Khombu Glacier and Ice fall. We'd done a bit of reading.

It has been tough going, physically dealing with the effects of altitude and trekking for up to 9 hours some days, but they made it!!!

Disappointingly, we didn't see any live Yeti's. We made our way to Kunjung to see a Yeti's skull and hands, but mysteriously they had disappeared in 1991. We did however; see a photo of a Yeti's scalp in Lukla and we did find a hairy ear on our trek that the boys are convinced belonged to a Yeti. Are Yeti's fact or fiction? We have decided to keep an open mind to the idea.

x Lisa (couldn't be prouder Mum)

The boys at Everest Base Camp

EBC

Today we trekked to EBC (Everest Base Camp). Dad did a nudie run through some of the Khombu Ice Fall. We had a snow fight. We put up some prayer flags for our family and Taiga and I put up an Australian flag. It was really hard, but really fun!

From Cody

Mum and I at the Khombu Ice Fall

The Big E

We made it! We climbed to EBC (Everest Base Camp) today! We had to walk really quickly through one part because there were avalanches.

We got to play in the Khombu Ice fall. It was a really tough trek. We ascended and descended for 5 hours. The winds were so strong in some parts of the trek that we had to hold onto each other so we didn't get blown off the range. It was awesome!

From Taiga

Our family at the Khombu Ice Fall

The Big Freeze

It was so cold in Lobouche last night that our drink bottles froze, the door couldn't open and the toilet froze over!

From Taiga

The ice is on the inside of our windows!

Lobouche

It was about -15 degrees celcius last night in Lobouche. We had to trek in -8 degrees to leave Lobouche. It was a very cold place. There were big chunks of ice on the ground.

From Cody

Steve's Diary Entries 7 - 12

Day 7, November 17th

What to do?

What was planned as a reasonably easy day turned out a little tough. We are now a day ahead of schedule. This afternoon we had a big meeting with our guide and Cody and Taiga to decide the best plan ahead. Using the day to acclimatise later in the trek isn't smart as the idea is to not hang around above 5000m. Having said that we would be happy to get the trek finished a day early in order to increase our chances of getting a flight out (Lukla airport has been closed for 6 days now). All the advice we have received is to take it quietly on the way up as altitude sickness can hit quickly. We have resolved to take the wise, cautious approach and still take our acclimatisation day tomorrow, albeit with a hike up several hundred meters then back to where we are, Dingboche, 4420m.

It was lovely and warm in the sun this afternoon, so most people had an outside wash, I shaved and reckon I smell like a flower. Meanwhile the boys made snowmen (amazing how their energy returned once the snow was in sight). The goal is to really freshen up before the last few days attacking EBC. Having said that, today we basically walked around what has become our favourite mountain, Ama Dablam, or I'm a Dumpling as we say. It is a beautiful mountain, not as high as Everest but it is the most technically difficult mountain in the world to climb.

Day 8, November 18th

Cards anyone?

To help with the acclimatisation we hiked about 250m up in an hour then the boys tried to build comfortable chairs out of rocks for an hour. We returned to our Dingboche accommodation for a restful day. The highlight, though, was that it started to snow at 3pm today. Very light so we shall see if it continues. Everyone staying here has retired to the communal dining room as the fire is going and it is freezing. Cody, Taiga and I have started playing cards with a group of "30 something year old" lads from NZ, and I have now left them to it. C & T are having so much fun and it is funny to be hearing them referred to as "Codes" and "Taig" in the cards session. The room has around 30 people in it, either huddling around the fire, reading, or observing the young boys battling away at cards. As the sun goes down, it is a nice place to be.

Day 9, November 19

The big freeze

We were scheduled to do an easy day but decided to set out early and see how we felt at our destination. We were there by 11am and charged on to Lebouche. My tummy complaint has returned so I'm a bit low on energy. We hit the sack at 6:30 pm and were to be greeted to our coldest night. Inside our room our drink bottles froze solid. The toilets froze over! I got no sleep after 9pm. At this altitude, your normal rate of relaxed breathing just doesn't get enough oxygen into your system so you keep having to take a deep breath or two, otherwise you feel like you are drowning. This isn't conducive to getting to sleep.

Day 10, November 20th

Top Base

Today we hike from Lebouche to our top "base" of Gorek Shep. It was quite a tough trek as it had a lot of up and down. I'm struggling a bit and we are trying to establish what the cause is. I have a splitting headache. A couple of panadol will do the trick.

We are now in Gorek Shep sitting in the sun room, chatting with people from Belgium (Cody and Taiga are teaching them card games), the US, Wales and Aussie. Out the window I can see the highest cell tower in the world. Nikki from the US teaches the boys a new card game called Yaniv. They proceed to learn it rather too well and beat her. We are mulling over the plan for the next two days. Dawa our guide is keen to not spend too much time at this altitude. We have two goals; EBC as well as summitting Kala Patthar, higher than EBC and allowing better views of the mountains.  There is debate over whether the sunrise or sunset views from Kala Patthar are better. Anyway, EBC is the main goal so we will do that first thing tomorrow.

Day 11, November 21st

Top Day

Today was a top day for several reasons. The boys goal of EBC would be achieved at a height of 5320m, their Top Spot. It had been a warm night, well as warm as you get up here. We set out at around 8am and a combination of the incline, the low temperature and the high altitude meant it was no easy feat. But achieve it we did, including two, year four boys from TSS on the Gold Coast, Australia. Lots of people on our way down congratulated the boys. Several things had to be done at EBC including leaving some prayer flags, sticking the 1001 journal sticker up and photographing it, getting some good EBC photos, putting up the Australian flag etc. We actually lingered for a couple of hours as it was fun and no one else was there. As we started back it looked like we had left it too late to make an assault on Kala Patthar. We made the hasty decision that Pemba and I would "give it a crack". We ran all the way back to Gorek Shep (I was quietly pleased as I actually had him puffing a few times). 15 minute turnaround to eat, repack our bags, change some clothes and head for three hours straight up. We summitted (ie the classic very, very top) Kala Patthar 5540m and took a few photo's. We then had to wait until sunset to get the best Everest shots. It was absolutely the coldest I have ever been, but it was worth it. We high-tailed it down in 40 minutes sharing one headlamp. We stopped on the way to get some more photo's as the moon peeked out. I wished I had a tripod but probably would have struggled to set it up given the cold. We entered the communal eating area to a cheer from my family. Over ten hours of hard yakka so comparable to an Ironman race. Lisa had ordered me "Sherpa stew" and it really hit the spot. The family were happy with the photo's too which was nice.

Day 12, November 22nd

5 does not equal 9

Time to head down the mountain. One son has had a bit of a chest complaint so we thought we'd just see how we went, with the ideal goal of Pangboche, where we had stayed before. The estimate was five hours. It took us more like nine, mostly due to poor estimation. We were not happy trekkers arriving at our destination, despite the eating area being nice and warm. A day that was far too long and a rest day might be in order for tomorrow.

From Steve

Highest Hotel in the World

We had an acclimatisation day in Namche Bazar because we ascended 800m in one day. If you ascend more than 500m in one day you have to have an acclimatisation day. Dad was sick, so Mum, Cody, Dawa, Pemba, Sonam and I all ascended another 200m to Kumjung, where the highest hotel recorded in the Guinness Book of Records is listed.

I also nearly got run down by some yaks, luckily Mum pulled me out of the way just in time.

From Taiga

Mum, Cody & I above Namche Bazar

Slippery Paths

Today we trekked for 4 hours. The paths were very slippery because they were completely iced over. When we got to Dingbouche we found snow and made huge snow balls.

From Cody

Judgment

It is day 7 of our 18 day trek and none of us has had a shower yet. It is not so unusual, as most people trekking don't shower. It is just too cold. We are at an altitude of 4420 metres above sea level and most available water is still frozen well into the afternoon. This also narrows washing clothes down to the bare essentials.

The other issue is things just don't dry. I had grand plans of attaching washed items to the back of my backpack with safety pins. This would just be an exercise in futility. It is just too cold!

Instead, we have had to sit around a yak dung fire in a tea house holding our washed personables chest height pulled taught between two hands, kind of like score cards in a game show. I can tell you now; I haven't seen any 10's !

It is amazing how opinions and judgments can be formed sitting opposite a man holding pink undies chest height. I'm hoping they were his girlfriend's.  

x Lisa

Yeti !

Yeti – abominable snowman; mythical hairy mountain man of the Himalaya.

Of course no trip to the Himalayas would be complete without keeping our eyes peeled for the hotly debated Yeti. The boys and I have continually asked Nepalese friends during our stay as to whether the Yeti is a myth or in fact a real entity. More people that we've spoken to claim to have seen a yeti, than have seen a yak!

Considering we've seen heaps of yaks, we think we are contenders to see a Yeti.

There are countless cases of local sightings. Sir Edmund Hilary even led an expedition in 1960 to track a Yeti.

In 1998 an official police report on a murder of a Sherpa woman near Dole on the Gokya Trek sited "Yeti Attack" as the cause of death!

Whilst the Rolwaling region seems to be the heartland of Yeti sightings, it is closely followed by the Khumbu Region, which is where we are trekking around. So there is hope!

x Lisa (eye's peeled Mum)

Yaks

I really like yaks! They are much bigger than cows. Their hair hangs down to their feet and their long horns curl inwards. They can only live in high altitudes and they are used to transport food supplies to high villages.

We have passed quite a few yak trains, whilst we've been trekking. We have to stand on the mountain side of the track because they are unpredictable and might bump us off the mountain.

From Cody

A Yak at Kumjung

Debouche

We are staying in tea houses on our trek. This morning when I woke up there was ice on the inside of the windows and ceiling of our room. The ponds were all frozen over. It is very cold!

We are currently at 3860m above sea level. Yesterday was a really hard day trekking. We trekked for 8 hours and only ascended 420m. Then we took another ½ hour to descend 200m to sleep.

From Taiga

Aah Families!

It is under physical pressure that you often see your family's traits shine through. It is probably no secret, but our entire family is so damn competitive! The first few days we powered and vied for lead position of the trek.

However, it hasn't taken long for altitude to put an end to that. The views and trek are literally breath-taking.

We have all agreed that Dawa, our guide should take the lead and we now all fall into line, no speaking, taking penguin steps and being conscious to breathe.

Yesterday we saw the rescue helicopter do four flights taking seriously sick (altitude sickness and one dead) to hospital and passed two donkeys carrying out moderately sick (again, altitude sickness).

This was a great wake up call to all the Corbetts, that we are in fact not invincible.

x Lisa

Steve's Diary Entries 1 - 6

Day 1, November 11th

Bring it on!

We were up bright and early and off to the airport. Very busy airport, so busy that our flight was an hour later than scheduled. We knew to get on the left hand side for the best view. You couldn't wipe the smile off Lisa's face and the rest of us were equally excited. Simply amazing views. Cool landing on the uphill airport at Lukla.  Quick cup of tea then off with our two porters and one guide. Having flown into altitude, the plan was an easy three and a half hours and a chance to get used to what we were carrying, pace etc. The boys didn't drink enough and one in particular talked too much. Amazing lunch on the way. Lisa's spring roll was huge and full of lovely fresh vegies. Warm guest house, (well, warm with all the warm clothes we brought). We lay in bed listening to the river running outside and the rats running in the roof. Lisa still smiling. One son requesting to go to bed at 5:30 pm so we were all well asleep by 7.

Day 2, November 12th

This is awesome!

After another great breakfast we trekked to Jorsale and we stayed at the Buddha lodge. The boys spent a couple of hours in the bar playing cannon ball with the locals including our porters. It must be cold. Sonam, one of our porters carrying most of the load has actually put a jacket on. He wears copy crocs (put socks on for the second half of the day), track pants and a light shirt. Always smiling he bounds ahead of us whilst trekking and then sits and waits. He has virtually zero luggage and we haven't seen him eating a lot. Our other porter, Pemba, is from Kathmandu (travelled with us). He also has essentially no luggage although he has good boots (gifted by a client we find out later). He too bounds along effortlessly with a big smile. Dawa is our guide. He is older and wiser. He is definitely taking care of us, telling us when to rest, put buffs and hats on, when to go inside, and what to eat. He tells us about the various places we pass through.

We cracked open the first box of chocolates today (thanks Nonna). Such a great treat when it is cold. We gave some to Sonam, Pemba and Dawa. The last of the box was rationed out for pockets for tomorrow, a tougher day elevating 800m.

Several people are taking a second glance when they see little Taiga and Cody trekking along. A man asked today how old they were and if they were struggling. We resolved later that he must have been struggling to have asked the question. They are doing well and learning the do's and don'ts. After today's fun at the bar they will be looking forward to getting to our destination each day as they love cannon ball.

Day 3, November 13th

Sore tummy

It is 4:30 am and we'll be up soon to get an early start. Our destination is Namche Bazar and they have a weekly market today. We chatted with some Americans last night and they told Lisa that the shopping is good so she is keen to get there. Dawa has advised us to wear warmer clothes today as it is getting colder. The chance of snow is increasing which is only increasing the excitement in the Corbett trekking party.

The food we have been having has been delicious. We have been told that garlic soup is "mountain medicine" so we all smell of garlic! Luckily the soup is really tasty and good for warming you up. Taiga and I had pizza today for lunch at Namche Bazar and it was outstanding.  We probably should have listened to the advice not to eat the cheese.

We wrapped up warm and hit the markets. Lisa has her eye on a particular hat which will no doubt be purchased before we leave. Well, we aren't sure if it is the altitude, the cheese in the pizza, or the cold wind but I have got sick. Confined to bed for the rest of the day with no appetite.

Day 4, November 14th

Acclimatisation

Today is a rest day which includes a 3 hour hike up (400m vertical) and back to continue the acclimatisation. I didn't manage all of it as the vomiting has continued. Lets hope I'm OK for the eight hours tomorrow.

Yesterday was cloudy so we hadn't noticed the view outside our window. Lisa looked out the window and exclaimed "wow". A huge snow capped mountain range staring straight at us. Today has been a good chill out day. The boys are playing cards, Lisa is planning her next shopping expedition, and we are all very happy and in good spirits.

Part of the fun of this trip has been the people we have met along the way. We've just been chatting to a Melbourne guy on his way down the mountain. He has expanded on the things we can expect. He has pointed out how cold it is further up the mountain so Lisa has just headed out to buy more warm gear.

Day 5, November 15th

Penguin Steps

Early start as we have our toughest day so far. Four and a half hours solid walk to lunch then three and a half hours up and up. Dawa has been trying to teach us "penguin steps", nice small slow steps to conserve energy. If you stride out when the track is basically going up at 45° you make it much tougher on yourself. It has taken until today to really master the penguin steps.  Very glad to get to our destination today, Debouche. It is 200m vertical, down from our highest point today so quite sheltered. A couple of easier days ahead of us to recover and continue the acclimatisation. We are at 3700m now and all going pretty well.

We were blessed with a clear morning today and had our first really good view of Everest. We could actually see four peaks clearly all morning; Everest, Lhotse, No. 38 and Ama Dablam. Lhotse looks the most impressive and the tallest given it is closer. We made a donation along the way to some people responsible for maintaining a section of the track. They were making a wonderful job of it too.

SHORT PEOPLE: Lisa and I had a laugh today at how things are set up for short people here. I gave my head a fair crack last night when I went to the toilet and I must have woken everyone up when I shouted out what I had gone there to do. In the entrance area to our current lodge, I reckon I would knock the light bulb out with my nose!

FOOD: Whilst the food has been tasty, it is a bit limited. We have been warned off caffeine, dairy and meat products. Just today we have been talking about the food we have been missing. Some good salads, a wagyu roast, salmon with capers, french cutlets, Nonna's ham and corn muffins with sweet chili sauce, Nana's fudge with a strong coffee.

COLD: It is starting to get pretty cold, particularly for some Gold Coasters. Ice has formed on the ceiling of our rooms. I ducked outside this morning in my thongs to check out the frost. This was a mistake and I am now reconsidering my planned nudie run at EBC (Everest base camp). Darn cold. Taiga has just brought in a clump of ice taken from his window sill. Its midday and the puddles are still iced over.

SOUNDS: Bells clanging on the yaks and jokbei as they go past with their shepherds shouting at them, Dawa's accent as he explains what we are going to be doing today, Pemba and Sonam singing and dancing on the track whilst the rest of us try to catch our breath, "Jam jam" - Dawa telling us to set off on the next stage of the trek, "Lisa maam" and "James sir" - how Dawa addresses Lisa and I, "Namaste" in varying accents, the best being the little Nepali toddlers that shout it out to us, "Slowly, slowly" - Dawa trying to ensure that we don't over exert ourselves. "EZ peesy, lemon eeskoo easy" - Dawa telling us we have an easy section ahead.

Day 6, November 16th

Intervals

Nice easy three hours today. We made our destination before lunch. We are now right in the middle of the mountains, with peaks out each window of our lodge. This will be a good chance to really freshen up. We plan to have a good chill out afternoon. Today I realised that taking ten quick steps on an incline is like running 200m intervals on a long run. Your heart rate spikes, you are completely out of breath, you hope you will recover and you can only do a limited number of them and sill finish your run. We found out today that Lukla airport (where we flew into) has been closed in with bad weather since the day we arrived (5 days). If we had deferred arriving by a day it would have completely scuppered our adventure. We just need it to be open when we get back down so that we can still do our Tibet trip.

From Steve

Lukla

The worst kept secret of this trip has been our plan to climb to Mt Everest Base Camp, (EBC) or The Big E, as we now call it.

We flew into Lukla in a tiny twin engine plane. If you truly believe your pilot can navigate his way through the awesome Rolwaling Himal Range, it is the absolute all time adrenaline rush of flights. Thankfully ours did.

The Lukla airport is the third highest airport in the world with a runway that is probably about 800m long and what feels like a 45 degree angle. Upon landing, you fly directly at a mountain and god willing you should stop just short of hitting it head on.

We all managed our first day of trekking quite well, however one son literally talked himself into a state of sheer exhaustion.

The air is certainly thinner than we are used to, so hopefully with care we can all acclimatise successfully.

x Lisa (fully pumped Mum)

A view from behind the pilot

All in the Name of Education

In term one of this year, one of the year four dad's spoke to the boys during their 'Natural Disaster Unit'. He spoke about Mt. Warning in Northern New South Wales. Both my boys came home enthused enough to want to climb it. We did, and on our descent, the question was posed, as to what was the world's tallest mountain and could we summit it. Steve and I agreed to Mt Everest Base Camp.

After a gruelling 11 days to ascend EBC (Everest Base Camp), we turned to leave and one son proclaimed, "That's The Big E done, bring on Kosciusko!"

Both boys have received much accolade from local Nepalese, Sherpas and foreigner climbers. One son was asked how he found Base Camp, his answer was golden; "easy, Mum and Dad showed us the way!"

What follows are our thoughts on the 18 day trek up and back from Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar and Ama Dablam Base Camp.

x Lisa